,  |  18 January 2013

CERRUTI 1881 Fall Winter 2013 Paris Fashion Show

Sensual classicism. Norms that, while being accepted, are slightly subverted. An impalpably personal take on the art of putting oneself together. For his debut at Cerruti 1881Paris, Aldo Maria Camillo delves into the house’s codes. Looking at the founder, whose values and quirk have been intrinsic to the Cerruti esthetic right from the beginning, he takes the lasting element – a cultured, intelligently nonchalant point of view on sartorial matters – and filters through a contemporary sensibility. The result is neat: full, at once, of masculine grace and a certain tension. Cerruti’s trademark subtleness translates into an innovative language that remains true to the original mix of formality and sportswear.

Precision runs throughout. Pieces are distilled to the essence, elongated to draw a tall and slender line. The silhouette caresses the shoulders, then falls. The hooded coat, the peacoat, the duffel coat gain, through new proportions, a martial solemnity. Tailored jackets have a new, longer length that captures both ease and properness in an immediately iconic line. Touched but not revealed, the body is central to the message: composed sensuality.

The quest for softness translates into a seamless merging of tailoring and sportswear. Fully-canvased blazers and overcoats take shoulder constructions from a sweatshirt; a bespoke finesse lands on the sportier pieces; extra-light cashmere polos and fluid wool and silk tops are worn under suits. Outerwear is firm, stark. Printed grids create rupture.

The precision of the tailoring is smoothed by the textured slouch of knitwear. A jumper has the soft thickness of outerwear.

The collection builds a wardrobe suited for the needs of the moment. There’s an overall celebration of the imperfection, intended as a sign of wit and personality: suits that never fully match; poloneck sweaters worn in place of shirts; broken textures on neatly tailored pieces.

The color palette is sophisticated. Tones of camel, midnight blue, burgundy, slate green, charcoal are unexpectedly mixed and broken up with black. On knitwear, petrol blue becomes Cerruti’s chromatic signature. The accent on textures gives color a melting quality, that carries on in the juxtaposition of fabrics. Most of them developed exclusively by Lanificio F.lli Cerruti, the choice runs from extra soft to firm and dry: ramie/wool, cashmere, wool/silk mikado; technical wools for sportswear. Accessories are classic lace-ups and molded leather briefcase with functional elements obtained with no cuts. Sunglasses highlight the silhouette with a nonchalant touch.

A vision of imperfect perfection that puts the wearer, and his character, at the center.