,  |  17 January 2014

CERRUTI 1881 PARIS Fall Winter 2014 Fashion Show

A black and white photo of a room locked up long ago. A cupboard containing remnants of a past life: a wardrobe replete with military clothing, memories of a harsh winter, over which the passing of time can clearly be discerned, felting, furring, fading fabric; a wardrobe that’s as yet too precious and too beguiling to be altogether abandoned.
Aldo Maria Camillo takes on a personal and sartorial journey, pursuing the idea of the noble soldier by encapsulating the faded charm of history in a distinctly contemporary vein. He focuses on the central theme of imperfect perfection, the defining trait of Cerruti 1881Paris, and interprets calculated yet crucial mistakes as a sign of life and uniqueness within an extremely formal framework.
He starts from familiar styles, opting for an interpretation that is both logical and emotional. A coherently incoherent wardrobe is revealed, built upon additions of garments which retain the patina of time, following the idea of accumulation: detachable fur-lined and leather-piped interiors, collars and hoods are reminiscent of military functionalism; sleeveless jackets that double as waistcoats are piled onto other jackets; coats are layered too, revealing the quilted interiors. Volume and length perform a delicate balancing act in a somewhat surprising range of textiles, displaying and responding to the needs of myriad lifestyles; meticulously designed combat jackets, or nobly elongated ones, are artfully constructed to allow ease of movement; they are worn over wide trouser showing a glimpse of thick socks or over impeccably tailored pants. The inside linings are so sumptuous as to be worn outside. Sportswear reaches new levels of sartorial finesse; parkas and raincoats have been re-invented using innovative shapes and fabrics. The pocket is a recurrent theme throughout, in a deliberate attempt to give a new balance to the whole look: like a patch, out of sync, placed either far too low or far too high, as if the garment was old and re-hashed.
The search for perfect imperfection continues into the knitwear. Long voluminous shapes alternate with cropped boiled wool tops as micro and macro ribs mix with faded time- worn checks. Accessories like cordovan sturdy derbies with reinforced mountain-style soles, detachable fringes and brogue motif, and a pair of protective sunglasses, complete the look
Fabrics harbour a density which can only be achieved with the passing of time: boiled wool, military felt, cashmere, double-faced wool and cashmere complement the rougher textures with finer weaves and highlight the tactile quality of the patterns and motifs, from pinstripe to dark checks. The colour-palette reveals a feeling of harmony: overriding black, energetic red, burnt brown, tobacco and mustard mix into organic compositions which time has cleaned up of any imperfection.