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| 28 June 2013
CERRUTI 1881 PARIS Spring Summer 2014 Fashion Show
Creative director Aldo Maria Camillo has used tradition in non-traditional ways for his second Cerruti 1881Pariscollection, moving a step further in defining the contemporary spirit of the fashion house.
His style is one of modest and restrained sensuality, and this signature becomes enriched and more profound in this collection. Outlines and lengths intertwine creating a soft care-free look. Camillo shows an intimate knowledge of his active and eclectic clientele; combining refined tailoring with the ease of sportswear.
This season the focus is more than ever on fabric and texture with in a playful game of control and eccentricity.
A tall and priestly silhouette emerges. Its height has a defining quality, expressing a calm and resolute dignity. The dialogue between the fabric and the body, gently concealed but never revealed, emanates a tangible power. Shoulders are clean-cut and bold thereby freeing up the silhouette which plunges vertically or tightens further down. The belt creates a new definition in volumes over sports jackets and redesigned parkas: it outlines a high waistline on the one hand, fading away on the other. Dust coats harbouring all the grace of martial solemnity, inflate at the back. The double has been adapted and used for technical wear.
Field jackets have been stripped of any superfluous detail and reduced to the bare-essentials. The rigid quality in the outerwear is softened in the overcoats and bomber jackets woven out of jacquards that form geometric shapes.
Naval prints on sports-wear create a rough yet refined look, a look that filters through into the range of tailored battered-leather garments.
Impossibly light fitted jackets are made to perfection. Trousers have greater volume and new lengths. Blended lines and transparent layers characterise the knitwear. Voile shirts are superimposed creating the impression of 3-D Breton stripes. This notion of perfect imperfection continues in the suits that make up the evening-wear range.
The colour-palette is earthy. Black re-establishes itself as the classic masculine colour. Different tones of charcoal, chalk, mud and dust are broken up by ruby reds and sage greens. Jacquard weaves add a mellow quality to the colours.
The fabrics are heavy and tactile: ramie/wool, canvas, wool/silk Mikado, technical wool, fil lancé, fil coupé, and cotton voile. Men’s boots and ankle boots are laced through metal eyelets making them both elegant and functional. Intricate navel/industrial patterns create complex iconographic shapes on large scarves.
This collection contains a wealth of initiatives ideal for creating a very individual and personalised wardrobe.
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