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| 27 June 2014
CERRUTI 1881 PARIS Spring Summer 2015 Collection
Dawn in the desert. A car journey taking you from Palm Springs to L.A. A journey where direct routes are spurned, where time and space give way to instinct, to desire and to passion, guided only by the horizon and the sense of freedom which will lead each of us to a personal destination.
The new Cerruti 1881 Paris collection recounts this journey and captures the feeling of light-mindedness transforming it into something tangible. Aldo Maria Camillo pursues the essence of the contemporary Cerruti style, outlining the figure of a man capable of combining rigour with softness, discipline with abandonment. He recognises emotive and aesthetic fluidity as a characteristic of the present days, offering an interpretation drenched in sensuality, subtle yet palpable.
Freedom: weightlessness, the air, which slips between the body and the clothes, that disrupts rules and protocol and creates a peaceful yet inexorable clash between tailoring and sportswear. Dapper laxity, which is an intrinsic part of the DNA of the fashion house, is explored from a new angle, gently taking root in the present moment.
The silhouette is flowing: airy and athletic, defined by voluminous dust coats, jackets replete with shirt collars, polimateric bomber jackets and parkas, soft trousers that are gathered at the bottom, and tailored Bermuda shorts. Even formal attire is worn with long shirts that soften and lighten the look; suits made from delicate material slip over the body without constraining it. Jackets become sleeveless waistcoats, lending absolute nonchalance to the look; emphasizing the shoulders like sports tanks.
Freedom: to be open to cross-contamination. Surfer meets city boy: the printed silk and voile scarves that look as though they’ve been retrieved from the back of an old shop in L.A, are inlaid and assembled onto patchwork shirts in an eclectic libertarian fashion. Palm jacquards run through jumpers, worn inside-out as a purely tactile and visual suggestion. Hybrid shoes and utility sandals complete the search for a natural look.
The chromatic trajectory starts with natural tones – sand, sage, tobacco, wood – either used as solid colours or as a background for dark checks, that first light up with flashes of lemon, red, electric blue and orange, and then assuage themselves into more dusty hues. Asphalt grey constitutes a continuous disruptive element to the whole look; it suggests how to wear the garments, a reference point to be respected and reinterpreted. The world of Cerruti is always about idiosyncratic and personal choices.
Materials are innovative yet they retain a classic spirit. They are the fruit of extensive and daring research, they are firm yet airy -mohair mixtures, gauzes made from tartan wools – a reinvention of classic textures from the Cerruti wool mills – combinations re-enforced with wool and viscose, ultralight silks and nylons, technical wools, voile and cotton muslins.
The journey as an expression of a more personal elegance, where all the elements are made available but are left open to interpretation. Of course, the codes are all there to guide you, just like on the highway they lead you to the first destination. However, finding yourself is more a question of attitude than anything else, and it makes us strong enough to take on a journey, even without a roadmap.
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