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Gieves & Hawkes
| 23 July 2018
GIEVES & HAWKES Autumn/Winter 2018 Collection: Reinterpreting Tradition
This season marks a step change for Gieves & Hawkes. Guided by Creative Director, John Harrison, the house has reinterpreted its long-standing naval heritage for the international man. Classic British dress codes and the house’s forgotten signatures are reintroduced with a modern sensibility, to create a collection that is forward-looking and relevant for today.
Gieves & Hawkes has been the chosen outfitter to the British Navy’s officer class since the mid-1900s. To design Autumn Winter ’18, Harrison spent time immersed our archives, uncovering long-lost parts of the house’s naval history. These elements now come to the fore through the house’s new graphics, and in the technical design touches that punctuate the collection.
Freshly discovered signature motifs filter through Autumn Winter ‘18 to give it a clear, contemporary identity. The octopus is a symbol often found on naval paraphernalia (including Victorian mess jugs held in the Gieves & Hawkes archive), and our 1771 Crown Ship monogram, an emblem first gifted to Robert Gieve by the British Navy.
Naturally, tailoring is central to the collection and our refined structured silhouette is firmly in focus this winter. In contrast to softer continental tailoring, our house style is cut with square notched lapels wide enough to take full repeats of checked fabrics. Suits feature a longer line through the body and sharp pocket flaps for a clearly defined, masculine look. Jackets feature slightly softer construction forthe weekends, including our contemporary three-button sports coats in subtle textured cloths or soft knitted wool blazer fabrics.
Weekendwear has received the same treatment. Luxurious outerwear is key, with two renderings of the Gieves & Hawkes peacoat; one in navy and cream shearling with a generous revere collar, and the other a modern design in warming lambswool melton. New for the season, our Sou’wester coat has been cut in a rainproof technical cloth with impressive proportions and a naval-inspired panelled front. Even our classic raincoats have been bonded and seam-sealed for enhanced functionality. Beneath our coats sit fine-gauge knits in sumptuous cashmere, silk and merino blends, checked cotton flannel shirts, and chunky cream Guernsey.
For formal occasions, Harrison has applied the same approach to the house’s tailored eveningwear. The classic dinner suit has been cut in luxurious, English woollen rib cloth to catch the light, cut with shawl lapels, jetted pockets and elegant satin-trimmed dress trousers. Alongside these sit our contemporary silk jacquard evening jackets. Both work the Victorian octopus into a modern, fashionable context;one is tailored in English-woven silk jacquard and the other is silk taffeta – each in sartorial midnight blue.
The colour palette throughout is likewise informed by Gieves & Hawkes’s naval heritage. Alongside midnight and English navy sit rich ginger, tobacco and ochre colours, as well as cream, grey tones and oxblood – colours often found in military medal ribbons. Textures are soft and utilise woollen flannels and tonal checked fabrics suited to sophisticated business use and smart-casual dress codes. The construction of our tailoring has been overhauled this season, too. Now all the house’s jackets feature either half or full floating canvas construction and improved sleeve setting for comfort and longevity.
Autumn Winter ‘18 returns the house to its functional naval outfitting roots, but Harrison’s first collection is also an exercise in discreet British luxury; at once practical, elegant and carefully observed. This season, Gieves & Hawkes’s designs are there for men in need of everything from a beautifully cut business suit, to impressive eveningwear or relaxed, elegant weekendwear.
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